Treacle Tarts from ‘The British Larder’ – A review
|Mini Treacle Tarts|
The British Larder, A Cookbook for all Seasons
By Madalene Bonvini-Hamel
wouldn’t go through my letterbox, the postie delivered it right into my hands)
I was somewhat overwhelmed by the sheer size and weight of the book.
worked at some of the country’s finest restaurants, from Aubergine (as part of
Gordon Ramsay’s brigade) and Claridges, and under Michel Roux Jr at Le
Gavroche…” blimey, this is a serious chef, how on earth am I going to make anything
from a book by such a high powered chef?
created a website to show off
their love of seasonal produce, this led to them opening their Award winning
Pub, The British Larder in
Suffolk. This gave me a little
courage to think that perhaps there might be some recipes which suited my home
author. There are then some pages of
notes on suppliers, ingredients and some basic recipes. The book is
then divided into chapters by month, with each month starting with a practical and beautifully
written essay on the foods available in that month. Read carefully as there are some little gems of recipes hidden amongst the prose. The book is also generously illustrated with stunning
photographs taken my Madalane herself (RESPECT!)
Parsnip Straws and Beetroot and Red Onion Relish. Braised Beef Ribs with
January King Cabbage and Carrot Crush, Poppy Seed and Blood Orange Loaf Cake
Shallot Piccalilli, Rhubarb Melting Moments (I can’t begin to describe how
fantastic these look!)
Pickled Rhubarb, My Famous Treacle Tart
Quack Eggs with Radish Mayonnaise, Cardamom and Golden Sultana Hot Cross Buns
Asparagus and Broad Bean and Wild Mint Hummus, Chocolate and Fresh Mint
Half Roast Chicken with Kohlrabi, Fennel and Peanut Slaw, Chocolate Fudge Cakes
with Cherries in Red Wine
–Wrapped Chicken Skewers, Gooseberry Curd and Brown Sugar Meringue Mess with
Soft-boiled Duck Eggs and Toasted Cobnuts, Victoria Plum and Blackberry Frozen
Ice Cream Slices
Elderberry Vinaigrette, Slow Roasted Pork Belly with Crab Apple Jelly and Caramelised Damsons, Hedgerow Fruit
Pastilles (yes, pastilles as in ‘sweets’).
Caramel Walnuts, Pot Roasted Mallard with Cider Apples and Celeriac Mash, Apple
Snow with Warm Honey Madeleines.
Pear Parfait with Liquorice Jelly and Spice-poached Pears
early twenties, I learned a lot about seasonal cooking and eating from that
book. It was also a great reference and
source of techniques. I think The
British Larder could act in the same way for a cook who is keen to learn and
would like to create ambitious dishes.
It is also good for those of us who would like a reminder and some fresh
inspiration to cook seasonally.
book that is not devoted to game. So if
you like to cook and eat game you will find lots of inspiration and interesting
recipes for venison, partridge, pheasant, woodcock and rabbit.
of the author comes through. In The
British Larder there is an introductory paragraph or two about every recipe, and
it is here that Madalene really hooked me in.
Here is excerpt from one of the introductions:
chair, a chopping board and a sharp knife do the trick and, of course, if you
have a friend to gossip with even better, the time passes quickly and before
you know it, the beans are prepared and all that is left to do is the cooking”
(Sweet and Sour Pickled Green Beans)
much of a pastry chef, the flavour combinations would certainly suit my
taste. Preserves, cordials, pickles and
chutneys also feature in many of the chapters with inspiring flavour
outweighed by meat/fish/poultry recipes, so I wouldn’t recommend The British
Larder for vegetarian or vegan cooks.
‘Cooks Notes’ with substitutions or additional ideas relating to the recipe.
My Famous Treacle Tart
100g day-old sourdough bread, crusts removed (weight given is for crustless bread)
125ml double cream
300g golden syrup
40g clear honey
finely grated zest and juice of 1 small lemon
60g ground almonds
300g Sweet Shortcrust Pastry (see below)
The breadcrumb mixture is prepared then chilled overnight in the fridge, so you will need to start this recipe a day in advance (See Cook’s Notes)
Whizz the sourdough bread in a food processor to make fine breadcrumbs. Set aside. Whisk the egg and cream together in a small saucepan, just enough to make them runnier and easier to mix. Remove from the heat. Whisk the warmed golden syrup and honey and lemon zest and juice into the egg mixture, then stir in the ground almonds and breadcrumbs. Dover and leave the mixture to rest in the fridge overnight.
The following day, roll out the pastry on a lightly floured work surface to about 2mm thickness and use it to line a (loose-bottomed, if you like) 35 x 10 x 2.5cm fluted oblong flan tin (leaving a slight overhang of pastry). Leave to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile preheat the oven to 160C/Gas Mark 3.
Whisk the chilled breadcrumb mixture and pour it into the chilled pastry case. Bake in the oven for 40-45 minutes or until lightly set and golden – the tart will still have a gentle wobble in the centre but his will firm up once cooled.
Remove from the oven to a wire rack and leave the tart to cool completely in the tin. Once cold, trim the overhanging pastry from the top edges of the tart with a small serrated knife, then carefully remove the tart from the tin and cut it into slices. Serve with whipped Chantilly cream, creme fraiche or vanilla ice cream.
I recommend using an oblong fluted flan tin instead of a round one for this recipe , so that the tart cooks more evenly and is easier to cut and handle.
Use fresh bread that is a day old, cut the crusts off and the inside of the load only. Can can use regular white bread for the recipe, but I prefer sourdough as it gives the tart that extra special taste. Do not use dried breadcrumbs.
Be patient when making this tart and follow the recipe – leave the breadcrumb mixture to rest overnight in the fridge, do not overcook the tart, and leave it to cool completely before cutting and eating.
Sweet Shortcrust Pastry (makes about 600g) I used half of this to make a dozen mini Treacle Tarts
175g unsalted butter, softened
75g caster sugar
1 vanilla pod, split in half length ways and seeds scraped out (optional)
a pinch of table salt
2 eggs, beaten
300g plain flour
Put the butter, sugar, vanilla seeds, if using, and the salt into the bowl of an electric stand mixer and beat together until fluffy and pale in colour. Slowly add the beaten eggs, a little at a time, beating well after each addition. Sift the flour over the creamed mixture, then slowly mix in the flour until the pastry comes together, being careful not to over mix. (If you prefer, the pastry can be made by hand without a mixer, using a wooden spoon to beat and combine the ingredients, as directed.)
Turn the pastry on to a lightly floured work surface, but do not knead the pastry, just push it together. This recipe makes about 600g pastry and you can either use it all or freeze some to use at a later date. It’s unwise to make this recipe in a smaller quantity and you can easily freeze half of it (or as much as you have leftover) to use another time
Wrap the pastry in cling film (either wrap it as one piece, or divide it into tow pieces and wrap each piece separately) and then leave it to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes before rolling out. (I like to shape the pastry into flat even square (s) so that they fit comfortably into my fridge or freezer.) Freeze the pastry you are not using an use within 3 months. Defrost overnight in the fridge before use.
For the dozen mini treacle tarts, I used about 300g of pastry, 50g breadcrumbs, half an egg, 60g double cream, 15og golden syrup, 1/2 a lemon and 30g of ground almonds.
Recipe Review: Lots of people seem not to like dried fruit, so I made these as an alternative to mince pies and they worked very well. I was a little disappointed with the vanilla seeds in the pastry as I didn’t feel that there was a real hit of vanilla, so would boost it with vanilla sugar. Great idea though. The pastry is very soft even after a night in the fridge and not particularly easy to work with, I think I prefer my standard recipe but might try adding vanilla. The Treacle Tart mixture is a real triumph, easy to make and tastes very good indeed.
think it is good value for money and likely to become a new classic for British
cooks, chefs and foodies.
I was provided with a copy of The British Larder by Absolute Press/Bloomsbury Publishing, I was not required to write a positive review and my opinions are my own.